Nathmal ki Haveli

A family home with a famous front

Nathmal ki Haveli is a tall sandstone mansion in the old city, a short walk from the fort and the other havelis. Two carved stone elephants guard its entrance, and its front is covered in balconies, window screens and small figures. It is smaller than Patwon ki Haveli and still a private home, which gives it a very different feel: you are looking at a building that is lived in, not a museum.

The two-brother story

The haveli is usually dated to the late 19th century and is said to have been built for Diwan Mohata Nathmal, who served as prime minister to the ruler of Jaisalmer at the time. The story most guides tell is that two brothers, both stone craftsmen, carved it. Each took one half of the facade and worked without copying the other exactly, so the left and right sides look alike at first glance but differ in many details.

Guides also like to point out carvings of a horse carriage, a bicycle and even a steam engine, which the carvers are said to have copied from pictures rather than from life. Whether every detail of that story is accurate is hard to say, but the carvings themselves are there to see.

What to look for

The elephants and doorway

Start at the entrance. The two elephants are carved from the same yellow stone as the house, and the doorway around them is a good place to see how deeply the craftsmen cut into the sandstone.

Spot the differences

Step back across the lane and compare the two halves. Look at the window shapes, the brackets and the small panels between floors. It is a pleasant game to play with children, and you will usually find more differences the longer you look.

The ground floor

Part of the ground floor is sometimes open, with painted walls and miniature-style paintings, and a family member or shopkeeper may show you in. Entry to see the facade is free, and it usually opens about 8:00 AM – 7:00 PM. The family may ask a small fee to see inside; if so, it is reasonable to pay it, as they maintain the building themselves.

Photography and light

The lane is narrow, so a wide-angle setting helps. Morning usually gives the most even light on the facade. Upper floors are the family's private space; do not point cameras into open windows, and ask before photographing anyone at the door.

Combining with nearby sights

Nathmal ki Haveli needs only about half an hour, so it fits neatly into a haveli walk. A simple loop is: the fort first thing, then down to Patwon ki Haveli, on to Nathmal ki Haveli, and finally Salim Singh ki Haveli near the fort's eastern side. All four can be done on foot in one morning if you start early.

For a full day plan, see our Jaisalmer itinerary, and for background on the ministers and merchants who shaped the city, the history guide. Shops on the ground floor sell handicrafts; buy only if you want to, and settle the price first.

The lane is busy with scooters and the occasional cow, so stand close to the walls when you stop to look. There is no parking outside; walk from the fort or take an auto-rickshaw to the nearest open road and continue on foot.