Jaisalmer Fort (Sonar Qila)

A fort people still live in

Jaisalmer Fort, often called Sonar Qila or the Golden Fort, sits on Trikuta hill above the old city. Its yellow sandstone walls turn a warm honey colour in the late afternoon, which is where the nickname comes from. What makes it different from most Indian forts is that it is still lived in. Families run guesthouses, shops and small temples inside the walls, and children walk to school through the same gates that visitors use.

You can walk into the fort itself without a ticket. The fees you will meet are for the Fort Palace Museum (Raj Mahal) and, for some visitors, the Jain temples. The facts panel on this page lists the current figures; in short, the palace museum is about ~₹200 for Indian visitors and ~₹600 for foreign visitors, and it usually opens about 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM.

A short history

Tradition holds that Rawal Jaisal, a Bhati Rajput ruler, founded the fort and the city around 1156 CE after leaving the older capital at Lodurva. That date is the one most historians accept, though you will see others quoted. The fort grew over the following centuries, with rings of walls and a large number of bastions; the figure usually given is 99, though counts differ depending on what you call a bastion.

The Jain temples inside are generally dated between the 12th and 16th centuries. In 2013 the fort was inscribed by UNESCO as part of the "Hill Forts of Rajasthan" group, alongside five other forts in the state. For the wider story of the Bhati rulers and the caravan trade that paid for all this stone, read our Jaisalmer history guide.

What to see, in walking order

Gates and the main square

Most people enter from the east through a series of gates, the last of which opens onto the main square, Dussehra Chowk. The Raj Mahal rises on one side of it. Go early: the lanes are quiet before about 10 am and the stone is still cool.

Fort Palace Museum

Allow about an hour. The rooms climb through several floors, with carved balconies, royal objects and rooftop views across the city. The foreigner ticket usually includes an audio guide.

Jain temples

A short walk west brings you to a connected group of Jain temples with dense carving on pillars and ceilings. Visitor hours are usually mornings only, roughly about 8:00 AM – 12:00 PM. Leave leather items outside and dress modestly.

Ramparts and lanes

Finish by wandering the lanes to the cannon points on the walls. The views west over the desert and north over the havelis are the reason to linger, and a rooftop café is a good place to wait out the midday heat.

Light and photography

The fort is best photographed from outside. Late afternoon light from the west lights up the walls; Vyas Chhatri and the edge of Gadisar Lake are the classic viewpoints. Inside, morning gives soft light in the lanes. Ask before photographing residents, and note that the palace museum may charge a separate camera fee.

Combining and practical notes

A comfortable half day covers the fort. Pair it with the havelis just below the walls: Patwon ki Haveli, Nathmal ki Haveli and Salim Singh ki Haveli are all a short walk away. End the day at Gadisar or Vyas Chhatri for sunset. Our Jaisalmer itinerary shows how this fits into two or three days.

A quiet word on conservation: the fort has real problems with water seepage, partly linked to modern plumbing and the load of hotels inside the walls. Many travellers now choose to stay just outside the fort, which eases that pressure. If you do stay inside, use water sparingly.

For all fees in one place, see the fort ticket price guide. Figures change, so confirm at the counter.