Vyas Chhatri

Cenotaphs on the edge of town

Vyas Chhatri is a group of sandstone cenotaphs on a low rise at the northern edge of the old city. The word chhatri means umbrella, and it describes the domed pavilions on slender pillars that mark memorial sites across Rajasthan. Here the domes stand close together, in varying sizes, and from among them you get one of the best views of the fort across the rooftops.

Whose memorials are these?

Unlike the royal cenotaphs at Bada Bagh, these chhatris are generally said to belong to the Brahmin community of Jaisalmer, especially the Pushkarna Brahmins. The site takes its name from the sage Vyasa, traditionally honoured as the compiler of the Mahabharata, and a chhatri dedicated to him is said to be among them. Ages of the individual cenotaphs vary, and detailed records are hard to find, so treat any specific date you hear with caution.

This is still a memorial ground. Walk quietly, do not climb on the structures, and be respectful if you see a family visiting.

What to see

The chhatris

Take a slow loop through the pavilions before the sunset crowd arrives. Look at the carved pillars, the small inscribed panels and the way the domes change in style from one to the next.

The fort view

Head for the higher points on the western side of the site. From here the fort rises across the city, framed by the chhatri domes. This view is why most people come.

Music at sunset

Local musicians often play near the entrance in the evening. If you enjoy it or take photographs of them, a small tip is appreciated.

Light and photography

Sunset is the main event. As the sun drops, the fort walls glow gold and the domes in the foreground turn into silhouettes. Arrive about 45 minutes before sunset to find a spot, as the best points fill up. A mid-range zoom lets you compress the domes and fort into one frame; a wide lens works well among the chhatris themselves. Stay a few minutes after sunset for the softer blue light.

Morning is much quieter and gives a different, gentler look, though the fort is then backlit.

Combining and practical notes

Vyas Chhatri is close to the city, so it is an easy end to a day spent at the fort and the havelis. If you prefer a sunrise, pair Gadisar Lake in the morning with Vyas Chhatri in the evening. Those with a car can instead catch sunset at Bada Bagh, a short drive further out, and save Vyas Chhatri for another day.

The ticket is about ~₹50 for Indian visitors and ~₹100 for foreign visitors, and the site is usually open about 8:00 AM – 7:00 PM. Rates reported online vary, so check at the gate. See sightseeing timings for sunset times through the year and the itinerary guide for where this fits.

The ground is uneven stone, so wear good shoes and carry a torch or phone light if you stay after dark.

Getting there

From the fort area, an auto-rickshaw takes only a few minutes; agree the fare before you get in, and ask the driver to wait if you want a ride back after dark. Some visitors walk, but the route passes through busy roads, so a short ride is easier in the evening. The entrance is small and easy to miss, so it helps to show the driver the name.

Photographers who want the view without the crowd sometimes come on a weekday or in the shoulder months, when fewer tour groups are in town. Either way, keep your bag close in the busy minutes around sunset.