Bada Bagh

Royal cenotaphs on a desert ridge

Bada Bagh, meaning "big garden", is a complex of royal cenotaphs on a low ridge north of Jaisalmer, roughly 6 km from the city. Rows of sandstone chhatris, some small and simple, others large with several domes, stand against open desert. Behind them, a long line of modern wind turbines turns on the horizon, a contrast many visitors find oddly beautiful.

History

The site grew up around a dam, a tank and a garden that are usually credited to Maharawal Jai Singh II in the early 18th century. After his death, a cenotaph was raised for him here, and later rulers of Jaisalmer were commemorated in the same place. Exact dates for the individual chhatris vary between sources, so treat any specific year with some caution. The garden below the ridge still has trees fed by the old tank, though it is a shadow of what it may once have been.

Some guides say the last cenotaphs were left unfinished around the time of Indian independence, when the old princely order ended. It is a nice detail, but we have not been able to confirm it.

What to see

The main terrace

From the entrance, walk up to the main group of chhatris on the ridge. Look inside the domes for carved ceilings and at the memorial stones, many of which show a horseman. Walk slowly and do not climb on the structures.

The far edge

Continue to the back of the ridge. From here the domes line up against the empty desert and the wind farm, and you get the widest view.

The dam and garden

On the way out, look down at the old dam and the garden below. It is a reminder of how much effort went into holding water in this landscape.

Light and photography

Bada Bagh is at its best at sunrise and sunset, when the sandstone turns gold and the long shadows bring out the carving. Sunrise tends to be quieter. Note that the ticket window hours can differ from light hours, so ask the day before whether the gate will be open for an early start. A wide lens captures rows of domes; a zoom helps you stack the chhatris against the turbines.

Combining and practical notes

You will need a car, auto-rickshaw or bike to get here. Bada Bagh is on the road north-west of the city, which makes it an easy first stop on a day that continues to Lodurva, then Kuldhara and on to the dunes at Sam for the evening. Our places near Jaisalmer guide and local sightseeing cab page help plan that loop.

The entry ticket is about ~₹50 for Indian visitors and ~₹100 for foreign visitors, with a camera charge of around ~₹50. The site is usually open about 8:00 AM – 6:30 PM. There is very little shade on the ridge, so bring water and a hat outside the winter months.

If you are coming by auto-rickshaw, ask the driver to wait while you look around, since finding a return ride from the site can be difficult. Most visitors spend about an hour, a little more if you want to stay for the full change of light at dusk. There are few facilities on site beyond the ticket window, so use a restroom in the city before you set out.

Bada Bagh is quieter than the sights inside the city, and that is part of its appeal. Take a few minutes to sit on the edge of the ridge and listen to the wind; it is one of the more peaceful spots around Jaisalmer.